Traditional patterns of Maheshwari

Do not be wise in your own eyes; fear the Lord and shun evil. This will bring health to your body and nourishment to your bones.

– Proverbs 3:7-8 (NIV)

  

  some traditional patterns of Maheswari weaving

      The one trait of Maheshwari fabrics that has stood the test of time is it’s motifs. Even todaythey are mostly geometric and can be traced back to the detailings of the Maheshwari fort and temples. The most common border design patterns include chatai (woven mat pattern),linth (brick pattern), hira (diamond pattern) and chameli ki phool (the chemeli flower)CW.

     There were cirtain basic elements that combained with the central motif in the borders, such asthe baila Ankhi, muthuda and the gom katari SI.

     The borders of Maheshwari saris are reversible and the pallus are distinctive commonly contain five stripes, three coloured ones alternating with two white onesCW.Based on the designs of the border the saris were named as bugdi kinar sari, zari patti sari, rui phool kinar sari, phool kinar sari, chattai kinar sari, kahar kinar sari, bajuband kinar sari, etcAI.

      The stripes and checks in the body are known by specific names like...the Mirani chowkda, a heavy warp stripe with a single light weft stripe, the Phutani chowkda, a 2 by 2 check, the Chand-tara, a check after every 8 or 10 thread ends, the Gunji patti, a 3 by 3 checks....and so onSI.

baila ankhi

chattai kinar

laddoo kinar

double rui phool kinar

leharia kinar

pankha kinar

                    

Gunji chowkda (1 x 1 check)

Phutani chowkda (2 x 2 check)

Gunji patti (3 x 3 check)

Chand tara (Broad check)

Meerani chowkda (uneven checks)

Gunji ratti (combination of small and big checks)